How to phase out PFAS: 4 strategies for a sustainable textile industry

• PFAS in the textile industry: useful but risky
• PFAS phase-out: strategies and challenges
• Opportunities for the PFAS phase-out
• PFAS use: intentional or not?
• Regulation of PFAS: the current booth
• PFAS phase-out: both a challenge and an opportunity
• Conclusion: How to successfully phase out PFAS

It is hard to imagine the textile industry without PFAS, as they have a number of attractive properties. They make fabrics water and dirt repellent, improve the gliding properties of zippers, for example, and are resistant to heat and other chemicals. They are therefore often found in outdoor clothing such as jackets and hats, sports textiles such as pants and shoes and protective workwear. But PFAS are also widely used in paints, coatings, luggage, umbrellas, tents and camping equipment.

However, it is precisely these properties that make PFAS so problematic. They are extremely persistent and hardly biodegradable. As a result, they accumulate in the environment and in living organisms - i.e. in plants, animals and humans - and therefore pose a risk to health. Some PFAS are even suspected of being carcinogenic or affecting the endocrine system. Their production also leads to serious environmental pollution. Although the long-term effects are still being investigated, precautionary measures are considered necessary.

More and more companies are recognizing the risks and looking for alternatives. However, the PFAS phase-out poses challenges for many. Yet it is "not only a challenge, but also an opportunity", says Czerny. He told us how companies can successfully master the change, what solutions are available and what regulations are coming.

The long-term effects of PFAS have not yet been fully researched. But one thing is clear: precautionary measures are necessary. There is great uncertainty on the market - the industry faces the challenge of finding safe alternatives. This is where the Bluesign ACADEMY provides support with advice and strategies for a successful PFAS phase-out.

A crucial step is understanding your own supply chain. In order to create transparency at the end, you have to start at the beginning. If you know exactly where your materials come from and which chemicals are used, you can save on testing costs and develop a targeted testing strategy. This requires both a thorough examination of the supply chain and regular testing.

Phasing out PFAS is feasible - but it requires a clear plan, transparency in the supply chain and cooperation at all levels.

But knowledge alone is not enough. Communication, cooperation and transparency are essential. Bluesign ACADEMY has been using input stream management for almost 25 years. The goal: to prevent PFAS from entering the supply chain in the first place. Based on this principle, the Bluesign ACADEMY has developed concrete measures:

• Use of the Bluesign databases
• Communication with the supply chain
• Collecting information from chemical suppliers
• PFAS-free sites

The use of PFAS can be both intentional and unintentional. In some cases the use is clearly intentional, in others the intentional use of certain PFAS may be mixed with the unintentional use of others. Even a completely unintentional presence of PFAS is possible. Therefore, testing and screening is essential to provide clarity.

An important step in the PFAS phase-out is the identification of high-risk materials. Screening for total fluorine can provide initial indications of unintended PFAS use. The values should be below the reporting limit, especially in the EU with its strict regulations. If necessary, additional tests are required to ensure safe, compliant production. Surprises are always possible with analysis results - therefore an individual testing strategy is crucial.

The regulation of PFAS is becoming increasingly strict worldwide. Some of these chemicals are already classified as "persistent organic pollutants (POPs)" by the Stockholm Convention and are therefore restricted in many countries. The EU has adopted these rules in the EU POPs Regulation and is also using the REACH Regulation to further restrict PFAS.

In the EU, bans and limit values are defined in Annex XVII of the REACH Regulation. Existing restrictions can already be found here, such as entry 68 or entry 79, which will be adopted in 2024. These regulations apply not only to individual PFAS, but also to related substances with a similar structure - often limited to extremely low values in the ppb (parts per billion) range.

Countries such as the USA, China and Japan have also issued their own regulations on certain PFAS, including PFOA and PFOS. The EU is going even further: a current proposal envisages banning almost all PFAS in products - including in the textile industry. Very low limits apply, around 25 ppb for individual PFAS and 250 ppb for the total amount.

However, there are exceptions, for example for certain personal protective equipment (PPE) or high-performance filter materials. These may continue to contain PFAS, as there is often no equivalent alternative for them.

In view of the current and future PFAS regulations, companies in the textile industry have a great responsibility. Bluesign ACADEMY therefore supports them with holistic, science-based sustainability solutions along the entire supply chain. In order to reduce their ecological footprint, improve consumer safety and support companies with suitable strategies for phasing out PFAS.

Phasing out PFAS is a challenge, but also offers a valuable opportunity, as Czerny explains here:

'Many system partners report that dealing with PFAS has helped them to develop better products.

Phasing out PFAS therefore does not just mean replacing one chemical with another. It can also lead to companies rethinking their processes, materials, product designs and customer requirements. This change can therefore lead to sustainable, innovative products and give companies a stronger market position.