Jury meeting for ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 19/20: Three sectors as key themes for the season

ISPO Textrends received a record 512 products for Fall/Winter 19/20 covering ten sectors, including base layer to outer, street sports, insulation and trims. The Eco Era section was well subscribed to, but it was clear throughout all the products in the different sectors that the eco and sustainable values are becoming the norm in the textile industry.

“I am very inspired by a lot of things, a lot of innovative products and what for me is promising is the combination of innovation and an awareness of the sustainability aspect,” said Thomas Hakansson, freelance designer.

“I have to say I have been coming here for four years and this is the highest standard so far and it is really quite a jump,” said David Shah, editor in chief, VIEW. “Innovation is the new word and if they are going to survive they have to innovate and they are really understanding innovation,” he said with reference to the global applications being judged. 

One sector that caught the attention of the jury was the membranes and coatings with Shah noting that this sector “was by far the most interesting, really streets ahead.” New developments including reflective changeant effects through to abstract prints being coated and super light rip stops as well as eco-friendly applications appealed to the jury.

The latest developments in membranes and coatings offered a noticeable improvement compared to previous seasons. Color also came to the forefront, with companies focusing more detail on surface effect and contrasting yarn use. But what was also evident was that it is not enough to just look good and perform, the touch also has to be exceptional, with many applications scoring on all of these key factors.

Many products offer versatility at the point of design, as double knits and two layered fabrics feature for the season. A push in body mapped fabrics, eliminating the need for certain seams in the apparel production results in a more comfortable and efficient engineered garment.

Multi functional elements included breathability, thermal regulating, moisture management and FIR yarns and finishes seeing a growth. The importance of FIR yarns is that they proved an energized experience to the wearer, as heat released from the body is released and reflected back, increasing circulation and giving a sense of wellbeing.

Merino wool featured strongly, with single knits in hybrid blends delivering a natural touch with high level of performance. A new development that the jury picked up on was an innovative wool spacer, highlighting the versatility of this noble natural fiber and a next generation application.

Recycled yarns feature as did membranes, with recycled cashmere an option for insulation. Bio mimicry also continues to be a source of inspiration, especially in insulation, where synthetic insulation is cleverly mimicking the structure of natural down.

Reflectivity in printed fabrics and also in trims and accessories have developed, with the latest innovations combining a safety element with a much stronger decorative appeal, perfect for brands to differentiate collections.

Double knits, spacers and bonded fabrics delivered contrasting colours and textures, offering designers the opportunity to eliminate sewing processes and deliver reversible options to the consumer.

“It allows you when you look at the seam work and the reversibility for the look, with the technology and zippers we have today I can use something that has a beautiful coloured surface with the bonding underneath it. I can use fabrics both ways and reduce the design effort of the cutting which is less cost,” said Ali Ansari, designer and first time participant on the jury meeting.

The ubiquitous “S” word, sustainability, is rife, with applications sent to ISPO Textrends, confirming that companies have embraced this in all the product sectors from insulation through to membranes.

“It was quite interesting for me to be part of the jury to see so many innovative fabrics in so many great categories and it is interesting to see so many sustainable fabrics and interesting to see so many suppliers and producers are investing so much into sustainability,” said Sven Köhler, head of production at Maloja.

Giusy Bettoni, CEO of CLASS (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy) was particularly impressed by the applications during the jury meeting. “I am enthusiastic, because I think there has been a lot of improvement, not just from a technical point of view but from a touch and look point of view and for me, the fact you see more and more responsible materials and responsible processes.”

A regular member of the international jury, Bettoni highlighted that while the innovation was evident, it wasn’t enough to be just sustainable, but the look and touch has to be amazing too.

Braz Costa, general manager at CITEVE also noticed the cleaner ingredients coming through. “At a sustainability level we have more and more applications. I think this is very good for the future because the industry is understanding the importance to recycle and to have more eco friendly materials.”

Another point Costa found very interesting was the perfection of the samples. With more and more applications to ISPO Textrends coming from everywhere in the world, there was a notable higher level of quality and finishing.

Whilst the best product and Top 10 were nominated for each sector, three key themes were also afforded to certain products. The first titled Nature’s Function, is the growing interest in bringing natural fibers into the performance market in hybrid blends and pure qualities in how nature can enhance the overall function and appeal in the sports and outdoors sector.

The second, Lightweight Protection, this didn’t just apply to the membranes sector, but was also awarded to high tenacity base layer fabrics and spacer structured second layers as well as innovation that featured in the insulation sector.

The final highlight, Surface Effect, due to the evident attention given to many fabrics in a purely optical as well as physical textural effect. All the products will be identified in the ISPO Textrends forum and the trend book.

ISPO Textrends is the first port of call for designers and brand developers to direct them to the best of the best of the best in defining the ingredients for successful sports and outdoor collections for the season.

By visiting the forum, the products on display give a clear indication to the companies that direct the visitors to the textile and trim manufacturers. To see all the Best Products, Top 10 and selected fabrics, trims and accessories for Fall/Winter 19/20 visit the ISPO Textrends forum in Hall C3.